Edelrid Ohm Assisted Braking Resistor

Assisted-braking resistor to increase rope friction when there is a large weight difference between belayer and lead climber.

In the event of a fall, the OHM increases the amount of rope friction so that a lighter belayer can hold a heavier lead climber without difficulty.

The problem:  climbing partners with a significant difference in weight.  A significant difference in weight between lead climber and belayer frequently causes a problem.  This applies in particular to climbing couples, where the woman is often significantly lighter than her partner.

With the OHM, these problems are a thing of the past! The OHM is an assisted braking resistor designed to increase friction.  It compensates for a body weight difference of climbing partners of up to 40 kilograms!  It can easily be attached at the first bolt in the safety chain using a quickdraw, so that the rope runs through it.  In the event of a fall, the OHM increases rope friction allowing the lighter belayer to hold a heavier partner without difficulty.  This helps prevent the belayer from being thrown forcefully against the wall.  In addition, the belayer needs to apply significantly less hand braking force to arrest the fall.

The OHM is designed not to affect rope handling when belaying a lead climber.  It neither increases rope drag to the lead climber, nor has a negative effect when paying out rope.  The device's assisted braking mechanism is only activated in the event of a fall.  The OHM also works independently to the belay device used.  Should a lead climber fall at the first bolt, the OHM significantly reduces the risk of a possible ground fall.  Lowering a heavier climber is also much easier to control due to the increased friction.  This reduces the risk of accidents when lowering.  The OHM was developed together with the Institute of Mechanical Handling and Logistics at the University of Stuttgart.